Istria, the green north
North · Adriatic peninsula
Istria is a heart-shaped peninsula in the north-west of Croatia. Inland it is green and hilly; on the coast it is a string of old harbour towns.
Green hills and stone towns
The interior is farmland, woodland and vineyard, which is why Istria is often called "the green" side of Croatia. Small medieval towns sit on the tops of hills, built of local stone, with narrow lanes and a church tower at the centre.
- Motovun is a walled hill town above the Mirna valley, surrounded by the forest where truffles are hunted.
- Grožnjan is a small hilltop town known for its artists' studios and for music: it hosts summer music activity for young musicians.
Truffles, olive oil and wine
Food here is rooted in the land. Truffles are found in the forests of the Mirna valley around Motovun, and many restaurants shave them over pasta and eggs. Olive groves produce well-regarded oil, and cured ham (pršut) is a local staple.
Two wines define the peninsula: Malvazija istarska, a fresh white, and Teran, a deep, tart red.
Venice, Italy and Rome
For centuries much of the Istrian coast belonged to the Republic of Venice, and the peninsula later passed through Austrian, Italian and Yugoslav rule. You can still hear and read Italian here: some places have signs in both Croatian and Italian.
- Pula has a Roman amphitheatre, the Arena, built in the first century AD and still used for concerts and events.
- Rovinj is a harbour town on a small peninsula, its old town crowned by the church of St Euphemia and its tall bell tower.